Award Winning West Coast IPA #2
Recipe Specifics
Type: All Grain
SRM: 4.3
IBUS: 71.7
Batch Size: 6 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Final Bottling Vol: 5 gal
Efficiency: 69.00 %
Notes:
This beer took first place in two separate competitions winning best IPA in both Washington, DC and Baltimore competitions over 60 other IPAs.
The small 10 minute addition are a normal in boil, the big 10 minute additions are added at flameout for 30 minute hopstand.
This is the beer that made me a believer in the ratio of hops makes a difference. If this was a 50/50 split of Simcoe/Citra, I don’t think it would be the same beer.
Final Numbers:
Original Gravity: 1.056
Final Gravity: 1.008
ABV: 6.3%
Keg or Bottle: Keg
Keg Hops: Yes
Oxygen: Shook Bucket
Water Profile:
| Amt | Name | Type | # | %/IBU |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5.80 g | Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins) | Water Agent | 1 | – |
| 3.50 g | Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Mash 60.0 mins) | Water Agent | 2 | – |
| 1.90 g | Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) | Water Agent | 3 | – |
| 4.60 g | Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Boil 60.0 mins) | Water Agent | 9 | – |
| 2.80 g | Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Boil 60.0 mins) | Water Agent | 10 | – |
| 1.50 g | Calcium Chloride (Boil 60.0 mins) | Water Agent | 11 | – |
| R/O | Tap Water | Gypsum (gram/gal) | Epsom Salt (gram/gal) | Sea Salt (gram/gal) | Baking Soda (gram/gal) | Calcium Chloride (gram/gal) |
| Yes | No | 1.15 | 0.7 | 0 | 0 | 0.38 |
| Calcium | Magnesium | Sodium | Sulfate | Chloride | Bicarbonate | Cations | Anions | Total Hardness | Alkalinity | RA | S04/CI Ratio |
| 99 | 18.2 | 8 | 242.7 | 52.5 | 16 | 6.8 | 6.8 | 323 | 13 | -68 | 4.6 |
Mash/Grain Profile:
Mash at 148F for 60 Minutes
| Amt | Name | Type | # | %/IBU |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 8 lbs | Pale Malt (2 Row) US (1.8 SRM) | Grain | 4 | 60.4 % |
| 4 lbs | Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) | Grain | 5 | 30.2 % |
| 12.0 oz | Flaked Quinoa (1.6 SRM) | Grain | 6 | 5.7 % |
| 8.0 oz | Cara-Pils/Dextrine (1.3 SRM) | Grain | 7 | 3.8 % |
Boil Ingredients:
| Amt | Name | Type | # | %/IBU |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 15.00 g | Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] – Boil 60.0 min | Hop | 8 | 30.4 IBUs |
| 4.60 g | Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Boil 60.0 mins) | Water Agent | 9 | – |
| 2.80 g | Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Boil 60.0 mins) | Water Agent | 10 | – |
| 1.50 g | Calcium Chloride (Boil 60.0 mins) | Water Agent | 11 | – |
| 56.00 g | Centennial [10.00 %] – 30 min hopstand | Hop | 12 | 21.6 IBUs |
| 56.00 g | Citra [12.00 %] – Boil 30 min hopstand | Hop | 13 | 25.9 IBUs |
| 15.00 g | Simcoe [13.00 %] – Boil 10.0 min | Hop | 14 | 5.6 IBUs |
Fermentation:
Starter: No
Yeast: 4 ounces of WLP002 English Ale Yeast 3rd Generation 1 day old
Temperature: 61F 24 hours then 66F for 3 days then 68F for 7 days.
Dry Hopping:
First dose of 56 grams Simcoe and 28 grams Citra in bucket loose at 68F for 6 days then cold crashed to 33 F.
Kegged with 56g Simcoe and 15g Citra in weighted bag. Double flushed keg and bag of hops with C02 and left at room temperature for 2 days then into keezer.
| Amt | Name | Type | # | %/IBU |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 56.00 g | Simcoe [13.00 %] – Dry Hop 0.0 Days | Hop | 18 | 0.0 IBUs |
| 56.00 g | Simcoe [13.00 %] – Dry Hop 0.0 Days | Hop | 19 | 0.0 IBUs |
| 28.00 g | Citra [12.00 %] – Dry Hop 0.0 Days | Hop | 20 | 0.0 IBUs |
| 15.00 g | Citra [12.00 %] – Dry Hop 0.0 Days | Hop | 21 | 0.0 IBUs |
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Hello Scott, What a great site to geek out on. Could you possibly further discuss your thoughts on hop ratios, or direct me to more info on this. It’s something I’ve pondered and wondered about testing…ie: what effect does even a small amount of a high oil content hop in combination with other lower oil content hops have on the expression of the combined hop aromas and flavors.
I think ratio’s do make a difference. I ended up brewing this beer again dry hopping at equal parts Simcoe/Citra and it was indeed slightly different there was increased sweet fruit flavor/aroma with the increase in Citra (http://scottjanish.com/2015-ipa-for-nhc/).
You can try playing around with this hop calculator, which I attempt to estimate the flavor characteristics when combining different hop ratios based on their combined hop oils information: http://scottjanish.com/hop-oils-calulator/
Hi Scott,
I stumbled upon your beer recipe website (particularly the West Coast IPA #2 recipe), and I love it! Personal, frank, easy to read (hard to cut and paste though) and most of all, you include water profile!
So as I see it, you are basically mashing with 5 gallons and sparging with 5 gallons, each having a slightly different water-salts make-up… is that accurate? That would mean you’re not calculating strike water by multiplying pounds of grain bill by 1.25 quarts. You obviously are getting great results with that.
Adding the additives to the RO water is straight forward enough, but how do you come about those reported levels? How do you test your water? Or am I reading this wrong?
I took me a while to figure out your step #’s but I got it now.
And I assume you ferment in a fridge? Do you use carboys or a conical?
Thanks!
Robert
This is a great beer! I just went back and looked and the water:grain ratio for this beer was 1.5 qt/lb. I get my water figures from this great spreadsheet (Bru’n Water: https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/). You can enter in your starting water profile (in my case it’s R/0) and build up your water minerals as you please and it will calculate your water profile. I will say that when adding the minerals (especially gypsum it seems to my palate) directly to the boil kettle, you may get a slightly more salty/mineral tasting beer. So you may want to add your strike additions as normal and add the sparge additions to the sparge water and not the boil kettle if your sensitive to minerality in beers.
I do ferment in a small fridge for these hoppy beers. I have no moved to letting them ferment cool for 1-3 days then ramping them up about 5 degrees to finish out, which seems to speed up the processes with out any negative consequences.
I’m going to check out that spreadsheet thanks. You know I bought a used fridge and used it twice and now the damn thing stopped working! I appreciate your reply and look forward to beer made with some water additions. I’ll let you know how this recipe goes! Robert
I’m happy to report that my fridge works! Who knew there was a stupid defrost timer on a fridge with no freezer! Back in business!
Good news!
Can you clarify please your steps 12 & 13?
How can you do a “hopstand” for 30 minutes before doing the 10 minutes addition? Kill the flame then fire it up again? Your step 13 says “Boil 30 min “hopstand”… I’m confused.
Sorry that is a little confusing, this was prior to me using the steep/whirlpool option in Beersmith. This recipe has Simcoe as a 10 minute addition like normal and the other two are both 30 minute hopstands after the boil (not sure why they are not in order on here). I cut the heat after the boil and immediately put in the big addition for the hop stand and stir a little and let it sit for 30 minutes.
Another question. Bru’n Water calculator gives both mash and sparge quantities, but there is no difference as far as ppm goes. So I don’t understand what you mean by “adding the minerals (especially gypsum it seems to my palate) directly to the boil kettle, you may get a slightly more salty/mineral tasting beer. So you may want to add your strike additions as normal and add the sparge additions to the sparge water and not the boil kettle”
Aren’t you essentially just adding 10.4g Ca Sulfate, 6.3g epsom, 3.4g Ca Cl2 to your overall 10 gallons? Where in the process do you have different salts in different waters?
Thanks
It is the same calculated ppm for the total water, but I believe the mash will filter some of those minerals out (I don’t have any proof of this however). When I add the sparge additions to the boil pot instead of the sparge, it comes across more minerally to me. I hope that makes sense.
Hi Scott, been reading your site for a while now (awesome work!) and am looking to brew this recipe soon. I’ll preface this by saying I don’t have a pH meter (next on the list of investments), but I notice you don’t acidify the mash in your pale beers like this. Is that right? Looks like Bru’n Water comes in around 5.4 for this recipe without it. I’ve really just been using the water primer method over at HBT (and http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2012/02/water-chemistry-how-to-build-your-water.html) for most of my recipes, which in Bru’n Water would put my mash pH estimate at 5.16. Clearly your beers are coming out well with the awards you’ve won. Just wanted to make sure I had this correct prior to putting this recipe together. Thanks again for the site!
Thanks for the message! I generally do a little pH adjustments in pale beers, but I shoot for around 5.4 (I know a lot of others say lower for pale beers, but I tend to like the higher finishing pH in hoppy delicate beers). Are you starting with 100% R/O water? This is a slightly older beer, I have moved to prefer a much softer water profile (1:1 split of gypsum:calcium chloride – or as high as .5:1.25 in favor of calcium chloride). I generally have to use just a touch of acid malt to get in the 5.4 range (about 1% of the total grain bill is all). Hope that helps!
Scott, thanks for the reply. I am using 100% RO. My last couple beers I think I’ve had mash pH too low (based solely on final beer flavor). Obviously the best solution would be get a meter and run test mashes, but I don’t quite brew enough for that investment (yet). I usually like to have a west coast style APA/IPA and a “NE-style” PA/IPA on tap, so I have a sulfate-forward and a chloride-forward profile for each. After looking through my notes more carefully it looks like my best batch of late was one with just 4 g CaCl2 in the mash and 1% acid malt, which sounds similar to the softer profile you’re shooting for. Perhaps with the harder profile, the acid malt isn’t needed (it must’ve worked well in this recipe!). Thanks again.
is there an easy way to turn this into a BIAB recipe?
Shouldn’t have to change make any adjustments for BIAB, just add all the water and grains (as well as water minerals) to your kettle and everything else is the same!
Hey Scott, really love the site! I’ve never used Quinoa before in my brews or really seen it (other than the grocery store). Can you recommend an alternative or a good place to get some? Really pumped to try this recipe. Thanks!
Glad you are thinking about giving the recipe a shot! Shiloh Farms is a good place to order some online. Otherwise places like Whole Foods or other smaller organic type grocery stores sometimes carry flaked quinoa. Or you can also buy boxes of quinoa at grocery stores and boil it first similar to a cereal mash. Good luck!
Hi Scott,
How are you able to attenuate this as low as 1.008 ?
Beersmith estimate is ~1.015, and the wlp002 only attenuates 63-70 %.
Great work on the site, thanks a lot!
Different variables can alter the FG (mash temperature, grist, etc.). I did analyze over 25 batches with WLP002 here: http://scottjanish.com/analyzing-wlp002-over-25-batches/ You can see from the chart that if I mashed above 155F is when I experienced the higher final gravities (if that is what you want).
Hi Scott,
I’m going to brew this exact recipe (with slightly modified salt additions) for a competition and planning my timings at the moment. Just wondering how long your beer spent in keg before being bottled and sent to the competitions you took part in?
Your site is absolutely amazing source of useful info on IPA brewing!
Thanks for the kind words! I can’t remember for sure on this beer, but it was likely in a keg carbonated for about a week prior to being bottled off.
Thanks a lot for such a quick reply!
My understanding is that usually one needs to serve hoppy beer as soon as possible. Actually I have a chance to bottle even right the day before the competition, but I’m a little bit worry whether extra-fresh heavily dry-hopped beer will have too much raw hop flavor or have some other ‘green’ qualities and whether it would actually benefit from a week or two spent in bottle (in fridge, for sure). Can you please share your experience on this matter?
Hey, scott!
Do you cold crash the beer with the dry hopping in the bucket?
Im curious because im having some problems with my DH. Sometimes when i put it to 32 degrees the beer get a lot of grassy flavors and aromas, I dont know if it is relate to the temperature or problem with the hops (Im from brazil, so i dont always get fresh hops).
Huge fan from Brasil here, keep doing this great job!
Cheers!
Thanks for the kind words! When I cold crash, I do it in a sealed keg making sure there is pressure on the seal. I’ve always been a little afraid of oxygen getting in during cold crashing in buckets since they don’t tend to seal completely. When I get grassy flavors it’s typically been because the hops themselves (or the varietal) were grassy by their nature or I just used too many hops giving the beer a grassy vegetal bite. Anything over 7 ounces or so in the dry hop seems to be pushing this limit for me depending on the hop and type (cryo vs. pellet for example).
Hi Scott,
Congrats for the blog, this recipe looks great, I will try to brew it here in Brazil.
I dont know whats going on, but when I load the bsmx file in my BeerSmith, keeping your original equipment profile and without changing anything, the profile of the beer shown by beersmith if very different, like 102 IBU and 5.3% ABV. (BeerSmith Steps above)
Do you have a clue on whats i’m doing wrong?
Thanks!
Recipe: West Coast IPA TYPE: All Grain
Style: American IPA
—RECIPE SPECIFICATIONS———————————————–
SRM: 4,3 SRM SRM RANGE: 6,0-15,0 SRM
IBU: 102,9 IBUs Tinseth IBU RANGE: 40,0-70,0 IBUs
OG: 1,055 SG OG RANGE: 1,056-1,075 SG
FG: 1,015 SG FG RANGE: 1,010-1,018 SG
BU:GU: 1,867 Calories: 427,1 kcal/l Est ABV: 5,3 %
EE%: 68,00 % Batch: 22,71 l Boil: 27,18 l BT: 60 Mins
—WATER CHEMISTRY ADDITIONS—————-
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5,80 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60,0 mins Water Agent 1 –
3,50 g Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Mash 60,0 mins) Water Agent 2 –
1,90 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60,0 mins) Water Agent 3 –
Total Grain Weight: 6,01 kg Total Hops: 297,00 g oz.
—MASH/STEEP PROCESS——MASH PH:5,40 ——
>>>>>>>>>>-ADD WATER CHEMICALS BEFORE GRAINS!!<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>-RECYCLE FIRST RUNNINGS & VERIFY GRAIN/MLT TEMPS: 17,8 C/21,1 C
>>>>>>>>>>-ADD BOIL CHEMICALS BEFORE FWH
Batch sparge with 2 steps (Drain mash tun , 15,34l) of 75,6 C water
—BOIL PROCESS—————————–
Est Pre_Boil Gravity: 1,046 SG Est OG: 1,055 SG
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
15,00 g Columbus (Tomahawk) [14,00 %] – Boil 60, Hop 8 24,2 IBUs
4,60 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Boil 60,0 mins Water Agent 9 –
2,80 g Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Boil 60,0 mins) Water Agent 10 –
1,50 g Calcium Chloride (Boil 60,0 mins) Water Agent 11 –
56,00 g Centennial [10,00 %] – Boil 15,0 min Hop 12 32,0 IBUs
56,00 g Citra [12,00 %] – Boil 15,0 min Hop 13 38,5 IBUs
15,00 g Simcoe [13,00 %] – Boil 10,0 min Hop 14 8,2 IBUs
—FERM PROCESS—————————–
Primary Start: 18/01/14 – 10,00 Days at 18,3 C
Secondary Start: 28/01/14 – 10,00 Days at 18,3 C
Style Carb Range: 2,20-2,70 Vols
Bottling Date: 07/02/14 with 2,3 Volumes CO2:
—NOTES————————————
Hi,
Phenomenal recipe and website, indeed!
If I either want to bottle this beer (I have no kegging equipment) or keg it in a “Ecofass” keg which uses a PET pocket that does not allow your second dry hopping, how would you hop to get roughly the same result?
Thanks
You could just add a second dry hop charge a few days after adding your first one in the fermenter.
Just to doublecheck: you don’t chill at all prior to your big hop addition at flameout, which means your 30′ hopstand takes place at rougly 200F (95°C)?
Is that right?
Thanks
Both cooling or not should work great, little less bittering at the lower temperatures if that is a concern.
Hi Scott,
Just curious whether you use Pellet or fresh/dried hops in this recipe?
I prefer using pellets, mainly because they are so much easier to deal with in large quantities. But, since whole cone hops aren’t blended like pellets, if you get some from a lot that is smelling great, that’s a big advantage and it’s worth the hassle of using them!
Hi Scott,
Just getting into your blog. Strong n00b question here but when you dry hopped in the keg, what did you mean by this comment “Double flushed keg and bag of hops with C02”? Did you ultimately leave the bag of hops in the keg while serving?
Hey!
That means I added the hops to an empty keg, then flushed the keg with C02 twice prior to adding the beer. I did leave the hops in the keg while serving. Hope that helps!
Hey Scott,
I’m using RO water for this recipe as you did, and your final water profile is showing sodium of 8? Are you adding anything to your water (Baking soda) or is your water naturally have that? My plan was to only add Gypsum, Calcium Chloride, and Epsom.
Thanks!
Bump! I was wondering the same. How would we achieve the Sodium and Alkalinity (HCO) levels in the recipe if the recipe prescribes starting with RO or Distilled water? Thank you for this site and your book!
I just added gypsum, epsom, and calcium chloride to reverse osmosis water.
Hi Scott. Cheers for the great recipe! I brewed a small batch without quinoa to try it out and it turned out great.
I’ve just managed to get my hands on some flaked quinoa to add this time around though, but I’m just curious about what exactly it adds? From the high protein content I’m assuming it helps with head retention and body, but how does it go in regards to flavour?
Cheers!
I like to think of it similar to oats, it should lighten the color a little, and like you said, hopefully, aid in mouthfeel. I’m curious to see how your beer compares with the flaked quinoa and without!
Hi there,
Is the 6 gallons post boil and thus 5.5 in the fermenter, or 6 gallons total in the fermenter? Thanks
Hey, this would be assuming 5.5 into the fermenter (loss from the boil) and then more losses from dry hopping to yield approximately 5 gallons.
Hey Scott,
Would you mind if I start a post in the recipe section of homebrewtalk.com with this recipe (giving you full credit of course)? My reason is that there is currently a lot of discussion among homebrewers about how to make the best NEIPA, and a lot of discussion about classic American IPAs. I think there is a gap when it comes to modern west coast IPAs (clear, mild bitterness, no crystal, mix of classic C and new world hops) and I believe that this recipe embodies the style very well. It could a good way to kick off a helpful disucssion. Thanks!
No problem!
Hi Scott,
How in the world did you get the apparent attenuation to over 80% on this one? The White Labs website has attenuation of the WLP002 ESB strain at 63%-70%. Was it merely the low mash temp?
Cheers
My guess is I got a little drift from harvesting the yeast a number of times.
The recipe prescribes Dry Hopping 6 days at 68 degrees. Does that mean Dry Hop for 6 days after fermentation or during the last 6 days of fermentation?
The first dry hop dose was in primary with approx a day left of fermentation (to help with oxygen pickup).
Did you perform a Diacetyl Rest? If so, at what temp and how long? Or was that the reason to ferment for 7 days @ 68?
Just curious about the water mineral additions, what was the reason to add some minerals in the mash and then in boil?
I experimented for a while with splitting the mineral additions (for the mash water and sparge water) and adding the sparge water addition directly to the boil kettle. I prefer instead to add all the additions to the mash now when I added to the kettle, I thought I could perceive a little of a minerality and dryness to the finish that I didn’t care for.
Hey Scott, I have got this recipe in the fermenter now, Brew Day went well and looking forward to trying it.
You mention in your notes, “This is the beer that made me a believer in the ratio of hops makes a difference. If this was a 50/50 split of Simcoe/Citra, I don’t think it would be the same beer.” just wondering if you have any further blog posts looking at the impact of Ratios or an understand of how to determine the ratios. It’s one thing I struggle with, especially with Dry Hopping is what amount, of each hop, to add.
Thanks
Hi Scott, this recipe looks the goods. I’m unable to download there beersmith file from the link. It takes me to a page with xml code on it. I dont have this issue with other recipes.
Are you able to check out the backend of that link, i’m very keen to see the further details in the beersmith file!
cheers
Andy
Try right clicking and select “Save Link As” then you should be able to use it in BeerSmith!
Facepalm, i should have tried that. finally got the brew kegged and carbonated. Tastes like a core range beer of a quality producer, really good. Thanks for sharing recipe and everthing else on the blog!
Hi Scott,
Thanks for your time at the Maltose Falcons thing yesterday! It was extremely interesting and informative.
Just to beat a dead horse – the BMXL file for your WC IPA #2 loads a recipe showing Centennial and Citra at 15 minutes, but if I understand correctly these should be added at flameout and left for 30 minutes before cooling. Is that correct?
Cheers
Hey Scott, huge fan of your site. Thanks for being so active! I have some flaked spelt and am wondering if I could substitute it for the flaked quinoa. What are your thoughts?
Absolutely, I’ve used flaked spelt in the past with great results.
Thank you for all the great stuff on this site!!! I’ve got this recipe fermenting right now. I have a question about the keg dry-hopping. I’ve read that some suspend the hop bag by tying it to the bottom of the corny lid. Do you do (or recommend doing) this sort of thing or do you just throw the hop bag in and let it sink to the bottom? Thanks again!
I usually keg hop like this: http://scottjanish.com/my-favorite-way-to-dry-hop-loose-in-primary-and-kegs/
Thank you for sharing this recipe and experience.
One thing I don’t understand is the water addition. What is the purpose of adding salts during the boil and mash ? I’d love to hear your thoughts on it.
I usually add all salts during mash.
I generally don’t add salt additions directly to the kettle anymore, I experimented with this for a while but I thought I could get more of a direct minerality taste in those beers (adding the sparge additions directly to the boil). For the most part now I add all of the salt additions to the mash and adjust my acid adjustments accordingly.
Hey Scott. Great looking recipe. I don’t really have any meaningful comments or questions, but just wanted to say it’s awesome you’re still active on this old recipe page answering questions to help us homebrewers, especially considering you’re probably so busy running your brewery. So cool. Hope all is well at Sapwood and can’t wait to get up there again to see what you’re brewing.
Happy to! Hopefully, you do make it to Sapwood one of these days!
I went once a year or so ago. Loved it. I wish it was closer so I could go more often but I’ll definitely get back there again!
Hi Scott, I’m following your website and it’s very interesting!!
I will definitely try this recipe soon, but I have a question about yeast.
I use dry yeasts… Which one you suggest to use to replace the Wlp002?
Thank you!
Hey Maicol, I had good results with LalBrew® Verdant IPA.
Scott I’m curious what you would change to your dry hopping process for this recipe, given what you know from 6 years of dry hop research and experimentation?
Hey Steven, I’d likely “soft crash” the beer to ~58F (14C) for a day or two then dry-hop (preferably in a keg flushed with C02 and under pressure). Shaking the keg a couple of times a day and then transfer off the hops after day three. I’d consider around .2 gram of metabisulfite (per 5-gallons or 19L) while dry-hopping to help scavenge oxygen. I prefer quicker contact on hops at cooler temperatures now with ample agitation to encourage extraction.
Thanks Scott! Since the recipe was originally a double dry hop (once at the end of fermentation in the fermenter and once in the keg), would you keep the first dry hop the same? Or a single dry hop in the manner you described for the combined dry hop amount?
Lovely to see you interacting with homebrewers in here Scott – people certainly love when respected individuals in this hobby like yourself reach out to the everyday joe’s so kudos to you for that mate.
I’m brewing up a Westy tomorrow here in the UK and came across your interesting recipe. Following it with a few subs for what I have but the main one is swapping out Simcoe for Strata.
Never used Strata before but hoping it will give me the “dank” I am looking for in this brew.
Cheers mate, Matt
Hi Scott
Quick questions:
“Kegged with 56g Simcoe and 15g Citra in weighted bag. Double flushed keg and bag of hops with C02 and left at room temperature for 2 days then into keezer.” In the keezer you keep it at 32f (cold crush)? or at serving temp? For how long do you keep it in the keezer? (untill keg is empty :P? Or do you transfer to another keg after some time?
Did you use finings? I’m thinking pushing gelatin to the keg after some time and transfer afterwards.
Now that you use have a nice stainless mesh diptube filter, will you still use a bag for this recipe?
Thanks for all the good things!
Hey Maty, It’s been a while since I brewed this particular beer, but I likely dry-hopped at room temperature and moved it into the keezer leaving the hops in the weighted bag until the beer kicked. I didn’t use finings. After this post, I pretty much moved to use the stainless steel filter instead of bags, and would occasionally transfer to another serving keg to not over-extract greener compounds.
Hey Scott. I’m way late to this party, but this is a terrific recipe and beer. For all the wrong reasons I’m not one to use someone else’s recipe 100% as is, but I was intrigued and I’m glad I did! The hops presentation is a thing of beauty, and everything about this beer plays so well together. I appreciate you sharing with us and giving the clarifications above to make sure we didn’t make a wrong turn. Cheers!
Awesome to hear, cheers!
What a great recipe! I’ve made it five times now. The first batch I made had the most amazing aroma and flavor. Best beer I’ve ever brewed and exactly the kind of recipe I’ve been looking for. The next three batches were off however. Hop aroma and flavor was quite diminished. I tried new yeast, different hop bag, biotransformation, no hop spider, adjust whirlpool temp and time, even tried tap water thinking I may have made a mistake on the first batch and didn’t actually use distilled as I had in my notes. Finally noticed I made a mistake on the first batch and used 56g of Simcoe instead of 56g of Centennial for the hop stand! I brewed another batch with the same Simcoe “mistake” and nailed it. I may have messed up something in the other three batches because I like Centennial based beers as well but for some reason (maybe my hops were too old?) the Simcoe appeals to my taste.
Hi Scott, I’m interested in how you got the decent amount of IBU 21.6 and 25.9 for the flameout/hopstand? I use Brewfather and doesn’t add IBU for the 0min or Hopstand, I’ve also put it into Brewersfriend and also didn’t get the same IBU or anywhere close (under 10 IBU). My recipe is showing a total of 38 IBU for a West Coast with same hop timings and volumes as yours.
looks this awsome, but why use pounds and then use grams?
Interesting recipe for the water profile, do you add the salts immediately right before you add the barley and fwp addition?
This is the best IPA I’ve ever had, just made this. Super tropical juicy hops with great bitterness balance in my favorite west coast style, with a dry finish and delicious maris otter biscuit malt. Definitely making this again. Only substitution I did was flakes oats and added cascade hops and less simcoe for finishing/dry hops.
scott! as always, love this recipe. of course I had a brainfart and did the hopstand with simcoe and citra instead of the centennial addition. any thoughts on adding centennial to the dry hop, or just skip it and continue as is?