Award Winning West Coast IPA #2

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Hop Oil Information and Taste Metrics

 

 

 

 

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.bsmx File

 

 

 

Recipe Specifics

Type: All Grain
SRM: 4.3
IBUS: 71.7
Batch Size: 6 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Final Bottling Vol: 5 gal
Efficiency: 69.00 %

Notes:

This beer took first place in two separate competitions winning best IPA in both Washington, DC and Baltimore competitions over 60 other IPAs.

The small 10 minute addition are a normal in boil, the big 10 minute additions are added at flameout for 30 minute hopstand.

This is the beer that made me a believer in the ratio of hops makes a difference. If this was a 50/50 split of Simcoe/Citra, I don’t think it would be the same beer.

Final Numbers:

Original Gravity: 1.056
Final Gravity: 1.008
ABV: 6.3%
Keg or Bottle: Keg
Keg Hops: Yes
Oxygen: Shook Bucket

Water Profile:

 

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
5.80 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 1
3.50 g Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 2
1.90 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 3
4.60 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Boil 60.0 mins) Water Agent 9
2.80 g Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Boil 60.0 mins) Water Agent 10
1.50 g Calcium Chloride (Boil 60.0 mins) Water Agent 11

 

R/O Tap Water Gypsum (gram/gal) Epsom Salt (gram/gal) Sea Salt (gram/gal) Baking Soda (gram/gal) Calcium Chloride (gram/gal)
Yes No 1.15 0.7 0 0 0.38

 

Calcium Magnesium Sodium Sulfate Chloride Bicarbonate Cations Anions Total Hardness Alkalinity RA S04/CI Ratio
99 18.2 8 242.7 52.5 16 6.8 6.8 323 13 -68 4.6

Mash/Grain Profile:

Mash at  148F for 60 Minutes

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
8 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (1.8 SRM) Grain 4 60.4 %
4 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 5 30.2 %
12.0 oz Flaked Quinoa (1.6 SRM) Grain 6 5.7 %
8.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (1.3 SRM) Grain 7 3.8 %

Boil Ingredients:

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
15.00 g Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] – Boil 60.0 min Hop 8 30.4 IBUs
4.60 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Boil 60.0 mins) Water Agent 9
2.80 g Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Boil 60.0 mins) Water Agent 10
1.50 g Calcium Chloride (Boil 60.0 mins) Water Agent 11
56.00 g Centennial [10.00 %] – 30 min hopstand Hop 12 21.6 IBUs
56.00 g Citra [12.00 %] – Boil 30 min hopstand Hop 13 25.9 IBUs
15.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] – Boil 10.0 min Hop 14 5.6 IBUs

Fermentation:

Starter: No

Yeast: 4 ounces of WLP002 English Ale Yeast 3rd Generation 1 day old

Temperature: 61F 24 hours then 66F for 3 days then 68F for 7 days.

Dry Hopping:

First dose of 56 grams Simcoe and 28 grams Citra in bucket loose at 68F for 6 days then cold crashed to 33 F.

Kegged with 56g Simcoe and 15g Citra in weighted bag. Double flushed keg and bag of hops with C02 and left at room temperature for 2 days then into keezer.

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
56.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] – Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 18 0.0 IBUs
56.00 g Simcoe [13.00 %] – Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 19 0.0 IBUs
28.00 g Citra [12.00 %] – Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 20 0.0 IBUs
15.00 g Citra [12.00 %] – Dry Hop 0.0 Days Hop 21 0.0 IBUs

26 Comments

  1. Diane Griffin

    Hello Scott, What a great site to geek out on. Could you possibly further discuss your thoughts on hop ratios, or direct me to more info on this. It’s something I’ve pondered and wondered about testing…ie: what effect does even a small amount of a high oil content hop in combination with other lower oil content hops have on the expression of the combined hop aromas and flavors.

    Reply
    • janisco

      I think ratio’s do make a difference. I ended up brewing this beer again dry hopping at equal parts Simcoe/Citra and it was indeed slightly different there was increased sweet fruit flavor/aroma with the increase in Citra (http://scottjanish.com/2015-ipa-for-nhc/).

      You can try playing around with this hop calculator, which I attempt to estimate the flavor characteristics when combining different hop ratios based on their combined hop oils information: http://scottjanish.com/hop-oils-calulator/

      Reply
  2. Rob

    Hi Scott,
    I stumbled upon your beer recipe website (particularly the West Coast IPA #2 recipe), and I love it! Personal, frank, easy to read (hard to cut and paste though) and most of all, you include water profile!
    So as I see it, you are basically mashing with 5 gallons and sparging with 5 gallons, each having a slightly different water-salts make-up… is that accurate? That would mean you’re not calculating strike water by multiplying pounds of grain bill by 1.25 quarts. You obviously are getting great results with that.
    Adding the additives to the RO water is straight forward enough, but how do you come about those reported levels? How do you test your water? Or am I reading this wrong?
    I took me a while to figure out your step #’s but I got it now.
    And I assume you ferment in a fridge? Do you use carboys or a conical?
    Thanks!
    Robert

    Reply
    • janisco

      This is a great beer! I just went back and looked and the water:grain ratio for this beer was 1.5 qt/lb. I get my water figures from this great spreadsheet (Bru’n Water: https://sites.google.com/site/brunwater/). You can enter in your starting water profile (in my case it’s R/0) and build up your water minerals as you please and it will calculate your water profile. I will say that when adding the minerals (especially gypsum it seems to my palate) directly to the boil kettle, you may get a slightly more salty/mineral tasting beer. So you may want to add your strike additions as normal and add the sparge additions to the sparge water and not the boil kettle if your sensitive to minerality in beers.

      I do ferment in a small fridge for these hoppy beers. I have no moved to letting them ferment cool for 1-3 days then ramping them up about 5 degrees to finish out, which seems to speed up the processes with out any negative consequences.

      Reply
      • Robert

        I’m going to check out that spreadsheet thanks. You know I bought a used fridge and used it twice and now the damn thing stopped working! I appreciate your reply and look forward to beer made with some water additions. I’ll let you know how this recipe goes! Robert

        Reply
        • Robert

          I’m happy to report that my fridge works! Who knew there was a stupid defrost timer on a fridge with no freezer! Back in business!

          Reply
          • janisco

            Good news!

          • Robert

            Can you clarify please your steps 12 & 13?
            How can you do a “hopstand” for 30 minutes before doing the 10 minutes addition? Kill the flame then fire it up again? Your step 13 says “Boil 30 min “hopstand”… I’m confused.

          • janisco

            Sorry that is a little confusing, this was prior to me using the steep/whirlpool option in Beersmith. This recipe has Simcoe as a 10 minute addition like normal and the other two are both 30 minute hopstands after the boil (not sure why they are not in order on here). I cut the heat after the boil and immediately put in the big addition for the hop stand and stir a little and let it sit for 30 minutes.

          • Robert

            Another question. Bru’n Water calculator gives both mash and sparge quantities, but there is no difference as far as ppm goes. So I don’t understand what you mean by “adding the minerals (especially gypsum it seems to my palate) directly to the boil kettle, you may get a slightly more salty/mineral tasting beer. So you may want to add your strike additions as normal and add the sparge additions to the sparge water and not the boil kettle”

            Aren’t you essentially just adding 10.4g Ca Sulfate, 6.3g epsom, 3.4g Ca Cl2 to your overall 10 gallons? Where in the process do you have different salts in different waters?

            Thanks

          • janisco

            It is the same calculated ppm for the total water, but I believe the mash will filter some of those minerals out (I don’t have any proof of this however). When I add the sparge additions to the boil pot instead of the sparge, it comes across more minerally to me. I hope that makes sense.

  3. Michael Taylor

    Hi Scott, been reading your site for a while now (awesome work!) and am looking to brew this recipe soon. I’ll preface this by saying I don’t have a pH meter (next on the list of investments), but I notice you don’t acidify the mash in your pale beers like this. Is that right? Looks like Bru’n Water comes in around 5.4 for this recipe without it. I’ve really just been using the water primer method over at HBT (and http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2012/02/water-chemistry-how-to-build-your-water.html) for most of my recipes, which in Bru’n Water would put my mash pH estimate at 5.16. Clearly your beers are coming out well with the awards you’ve won. Just wanted to make sure I had this correct prior to putting this recipe together. Thanks again for the site!

    Reply
    • janisco

      Thanks for the message! I generally do a little pH adjustments in pale beers, but I shoot for around 5.4 (I know a lot of others say lower for pale beers, but I tend to like the higher finishing pH in hoppy delicate beers). Are you starting with 100% R/O water? This is a slightly older beer, I have moved to prefer a much softer water profile (1:1 split of gypsum:calcium chloride – or as high as .5:1.25 in favor of calcium chloride). I generally have to use just a touch of acid malt to get in the 5.4 range (about 1% of the total grain bill is all). Hope that helps!

      Reply
      • Michael Taylor

        Scott, thanks for the reply. I am using 100% RO. My last couple beers I think I’ve had mash pH too low (based solely on final beer flavor). Obviously the best solution would be get a meter and run test mashes, but I don’t quite brew enough for that investment (yet). I usually like to have a west coast style APA/IPA and a “NE-style” PA/IPA on tap, so I have a sulfate-forward and a chloride-forward profile for each. After looking through my notes more carefully it looks like my best batch of late was one with just 4 g CaCl2 in the mash and 1% acid malt, which sounds similar to the softer profile you’re shooting for. Perhaps with the harder profile, the acid malt isn’t needed (it must’ve worked well in this recipe!). Thanks again.

        Reply
  4. CORY

    is there an easy way to turn this into a BIAB recipe?

    Reply
    • janisco

      Shouldn’t have to change make any adjustments for BIAB, just add all the water and grains (as well as water minerals) to your kettle and everything else is the same!

      Reply
  5. zclevenger

    Hey Scott, really love the site! I’ve never used Quinoa before in my brews or really seen it (other than the grocery store). Can you recommend an alternative or a good place to get some? Really pumped to try this recipe. Thanks!

    Reply
    • janisco

      Glad you are thinking about giving the recipe a shot! Shiloh Farms is a good place to order some online. Otherwise places like Whole Foods or other smaller organic type grocery stores sometimes carry flaked quinoa. Or you can also buy boxes of quinoa at grocery stores and boil it first similar to a cereal mash. Good luck!

      Reply
  6. Andreas Ludviksen

    Hi Scott,

    How are you able to attenuate this as low as 1.008 ?
    Beersmith estimate is ~1.015, and the wlp002 only attenuates 63-70 %.

    Great work on the site, thanks a lot!

    Reply
    • janisco

      Different variables can alter the FG (mash temperature, grist, etc.). I did analyze over 25 batches with WLP002 here: http://scottjanish.com/analyzing-wlp002-over-25-batches/ You can see from the chart that if I mashed above 155F is when I experienced the higher final gravities (if that is what you want).

      Reply
  7. Maxim Sultakov

    Hi Scott,

    I’m going to brew this exact recipe (with slightly modified salt additions) for a competition and planning my timings at the moment. Just wondering how long your beer spent in keg before being bottled and sent to the competitions you took part in?

    Your site is absolutely amazing source of useful info on IPA brewing!

    Reply
    • janisco

      Thanks for the kind words! I can’t remember for sure on this beer, but it was likely in a keg carbonated for about a week prior to being bottled off.

      Reply
      • Maxim Sultakov

        Thanks a lot for such a quick reply!
        My understanding is that usually one needs to serve hoppy beer as soon as possible. Actually I have a chance to bottle even right the day before the competition, but I’m a little bit worry whether extra-fresh heavily dry-hopped beer will have too much raw hop flavor or have some other ‘green’ qualities and whether it would actually benefit from a week or two spent in bottle (in fridge, for sure). Can you please share your experience on this matter?

        Reply
  8. Bene

    Hey, scott!
    Do you cold crash the beer with the dry hopping in the bucket?
    Im curious because im having some problems with my DH. Sometimes when i put it to 32 degrees the beer get a lot of grassy flavors and aromas, I dont know if it is relate to the temperature or problem with the hops (Im from brazil, so i dont always get fresh hops).

    Huge fan from Brasil here, keep doing this great job!
    Cheers!

    Reply
    • janisco

      Thanks for the kind words! When I cold crash, I do it in a sealed keg making sure there is pressure on the seal. I’ve always been a little afraid of oxygen getting in during cold crashing in buckets since they don’t tend to seal completely. When I get grassy flavors it’s typically been because the hops themselves (or the varietal) were grassy by their nature or I just used too many hops giving the beer a grassy vegetal bite. Anything over 7 ounces or so in the dry hop seems to be pushing this limit for me depending on the hop and type (cryo vs. pellet for example).

      Reply
  9. Diego

    Hi Scott,

    Congrats for the blog, this recipe looks great, I will try to brew it here in Brazil.

    I dont know whats going on, but when I load the bsmx file in my BeerSmith, keeping your original equipment profile and without changing anything, the profile of the beer shown by beersmith if very different, like 102 IBU and 5.3% ABV. (BeerSmith Steps above)

    Do you have a clue on whats i’m doing wrong?

    Thanks!

    Recipe: West Coast IPA TYPE: All Grain
    Style: American IPA
    —RECIPE SPECIFICATIONS———————————————–
    SRM: 4,3 SRM SRM RANGE: 6,0-15,0 SRM
    IBU: 102,9 IBUs Tinseth IBU RANGE: 40,0-70,0 IBUs
    OG: 1,055 SG OG RANGE: 1,056-1,075 SG
    FG: 1,015 SG FG RANGE: 1,010-1,018 SG
    BU:GU: 1,867 Calories: 427,1 kcal/l Est ABV: 5,3 %
    EE%: 68,00 % Batch: 22,71 l Boil: 27,18 l BT: 60 Mins

    —WATER CHEMISTRY ADDITIONS—————-

    Amt Name Type # %/IBU
    5,80 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60,0 mins Water Agent 1 –
    3,50 g Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Mash 60,0 mins) Water Agent 2 –
    1,90 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60,0 mins) Water Agent 3 –

    Total Grain Weight: 6,01 kg Total Hops: 297,00 g oz.
    —MASH/STEEP PROCESS——MASH PH:5,40 ——
    >>>>>>>>>>-ADD WATER CHEMICALS BEFORE GRAINS!!<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>-RECYCLE FIRST RUNNINGS & VERIFY GRAIN/MLT TEMPS: 17,8 C/21,1 C
    >>>>>>>>>>-ADD BOIL CHEMICALS BEFORE FWH
    Batch sparge with 2 steps (Drain mash tun , 15,34l) of 75,6 C water

    —BOIL PROCESS—————————–
    Est Pre_Boil Gravity: 1,046 SG Est OG: 1,055 SG
    Amt Name Type # %/IBU
    15,00 g Columbus (Tomahawk) [14,00 %] – Boil 60, Hop 8 24,2 IBUs
    4,60 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Boil 60,0 mins Water Agent 9 –
    2,80 g Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Boil 60,0 mins) Water Agent 10 –
    1,50 g Calcium Chloride (Boil 60,0 mins) Water Agent 11 –
    56,00 g Centennial [10,00 %] – Boil 15,0 min Hop 12 32,0 IBUs
    56,00 g Citra [12,00 %] – Boil 15,0 min Hop 13 38,5 IBUs
    15,00 g Simcoe [13,00 %] – Boil 10,0 min Hop 14 8,2 IBUs

    —FERM PROCESS—————————–
    Primary Start: 18/01/14 – 10,00 Days at 18,3 C
    Secondary Start: 28/01/14 – 10,00 Days at 18,3 C
    Style Carb Range: 2,20-2,70 Vols
    Bottling Date: 07/02/14 with 2,3 Volumes CO2:
    —NOTES————————————

    Reply

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